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Barbarian Days

A Surfing Life

by William Finnegan

“Reading this guy on the subject of waves and water is like reading Hemingway on bullfighting; William Burroughs on controlled substances; Updike on adultery. . . . a coming-of-age story, seen through the gloss resin coat of a surfboard.” —Sports IllustratedBarbarian Days is William Finnegan’s memoir of an obsession, a complex enchantment. Surfing ...
Publish Date
2016
April 25
Goodreads rating
4.21
ISBN
9780143109396
Tags
memoirtravelbiographyadventure
Recommendations
3
Recommendations
Sep 09, 2015
That one, I only let myself read 10 pages at a time because I did not want it to end. It’s so good. Surfing seems so anti-verbal and he is so minutely good at explaining it.     source